Blogging: My Bad

In an expected turn of events, our beloved Carolyn Wierson needed to leave the program early. Consequently, I've been helping Carole with the program. I've also been enjoying the last of my extended holiday, running to and fro. I've given a poetry reading, attended a garden party, and been a guest on the radio show, The London Literature Lounge. All this and we've been being extra cautious because of the riots. Blogging, I fear, hasn't been something I've had time for.

I promise a full accounting in about a week's time. Photos included. Besides, I'm pretty sure that I'm Facebook Friends with everyone who reads this, so you should have gained some information from there.

We leave for the U.S. tomorrow. It has been a glorious 3.5 fortnights, but it is time to come home. Colin and I feel so fortunate to have our Oxford (and London and Paris and Whitby and Cardiff and Gloucester) friends. Much love to all of you. And, for our friends and family back in Atlanta, we have missed you.

I'm very excited about beginning my new job on Tuesday, but not before one final hurrah with my CETL colleagues.

Love to you all.

“O wonder! How many goodly creatures are there here!
How beauteous mankind is! O brave new world
That has such people in’t!”

Paris, Paris, Paris.

Last week was a bit of whirl.

Tuesday we had formal hall, where the faculty and students get dressed up and process in Worcester's ornate dining hall for a very formal meal with the faculty all at high table. This year I was honored and saddened to be asked to give a final toast to Dr. Carolyn Wierson, who has been the program administrative coordinator for 15 years. Carolyn, in addition to being an human institution, is simply one of the loveliest people in the world. Apparently, I made absolutely everyone cry, but I think that was fitting.

On Wednesday morning, Nancy Barke and I met at the coach station at 5:30. After arriving in London, we hopped on the Eurostar to Paris, arriving midday. It was a little rainy, but that didn't prevent us from visiting the famous kitchenware store, E. Dehillerin.

Having been up so long, we decided on an early dinner at a cafe just off la place de la Contrescarpe (where Hemingway lived) and then back to the hotel.

On Thursday, Nancy and I (much refreshed after a good rest) headed out toward the 7ème to a wonderful consignment store. Alas, the owners had already begun the annual French summer holiday--not to return until the beginning of September. So across the river we went to the 8ème. We had a wonderful, and very un-touristy experience at Place de la Madeleine, where we became card carrying members (carte d'adhésion) of the Association du Foyer de la Madeleine in the vaults under Eglise de la Madeleine. Essentially, this is a huge church cafeteria, but with table service (by volunteers) and a cheese course, it was pretty amazing. It is also the BEST lunch deal in Paris. Once you join (€ 5), a three course lunch is only € 7.50!

After lunch we walked over to the Maille shop--excellent purveyors of dozens of kinds of mustard. Then we visited a couple of other little shops like Chanel and Hermès. I'm all ready to begin my new Assistant Professor & Director of the Communication Center now that I have a fabulous new orange scarf. Nancy remembered a shop in the Palais de Congres, so we hopped on the Metro and headed to Porte Maillot. In late afternoon, the rain threatened again, so we ducked into Mariage Frères for afternoon tea.














Doesn't this look YUMMY?












Proust was right about the power of food! We had another good meal for dinner near Saint-Sulpice. After dropping off some bags at the hotel, we went to Gare du Nord to surprise Richard and Colin, who were on the last Eurostar of the day.

On Friday, we revisited Hermès (because Nancy had decided to get a scarf). The guys also joined Association du Foyer de la Madeleine, and we had another great lunch. Then we went to the Musée Marmottan Monet--my favorite Paris museum. Since we were so near to the Bois de Boulogne, we walked over and had a nice rest on beside the river (photo is at the beginning of this post). For dinner we visited one of my favorite restaurants (thank you to Grace Bauer for taking me there first): Aux Charpentiers. We took a long walk (despite the entire day of walking) back to the hotel.

On Saturday we were real tourists. We began by visiting the Grand Mosque. Then we went to the Panthéon.

(photos: Colin, Richard, & Nancy at the Panthéon; Richard at the Palais de Justice (where Saint Chapelle is); Rodin's Gates; Napoleon's Tomb)



Then to the Musée National du Moyen-Age (aka the Cluny. Then to Saint Chapelle.


Then to the Musée Rodin.



Then to Les Invalides to see Napoleon's tomb, which is absolutely cartoonish and vulgar!

We were going to one of Paris's oldest restaurants--alas, it was closed for August holiday. Instead we opted for a nearby Indian restaurant that was very good. A bit of excellent gelato topped off a very LONG day.


















On Sunday, we were pretty tired. We met friends John Krige and Lydia Mepham for breakfast. After a nice visit, we decided to take a boat ride up the Seine.



The weather was just beautiful--although we all got a tiny bit sunburned. Nancy and Richard had to return to England, so we walked them to the station. We spent the afternoon drinking wine at a cafe. We were planned to have dinner at the restaurant where Colin proposed, but again the French summer holiday thwarted us. We found a suitable place, where at least my desire for crème caramel was satisfied.

Monday in the wee hours, we stumbled to the Eurostar and were back in Oxford by noon.

University of London & Birthday Weekend

On Friday, Colin and I took the train to London. I had a nice mid-morning tea while he browsed at the Chess Shop. Near lunch, we navigated over to Bloomsbury to meet friend Philip at the University of London. Philip works in Senate House--a very historic art deco building. During WWII, the building was used by the Ministry of Information, which was the inspiration for Orwell's Ministry of Truth in 1984. The Grand Hall and the Senate chambers are absolutely beautiful. There are a number of fantastic portraits throughout, including one of a young Queen Victoria. The robes of the former Chancellor, the Queen Mother, are on display, and I must say she was a very tiny woman. The current Chancellor is the Princess Royal. Philip took us to the refectory for lunch: fish and chips. It was graduation day at SOAS, so there was lots of excitement all around campus.

After we said goodbye to Philip, we went to see the auto icon of Jeremy Bentham. A little freaky, I must say. After a pint at the pub named for Bentham, we went to the college bookstore (once Dillons, now a Waterstone). They were having a sale on secondhand books--some good finds there.

At 5:30 we met up with Agnes Meadows at the British Museum to see the special exhibit, Treasures of Heaven. Even if you aren't a religious person, the relics here were incredibly beautiful and interesting. As a bonus, the exhibition space is in the old reading room at the center of the museum's main hall. It was an extra treat to see that!

We went with Agnes to Islington to eat at her local favorite restaurant, Little Bay, then caught a late train back to Oxford.

On Saturday, we slept late, then we went up to Headington to comb through the charity shops. I found four nice scarves--like I need more!

In the evening we went for Indian food at Chutney's and then over to Wadham College Gardens to see a performance of Comedy of Errors. The company did a good job, intermingling show tunes adapted to the play. One of the actors played a number of the female roles, and was so funny! After the play we had to take the long way home because a young woman decided to scale some scaffolding near Turl Street, so the police blocked everything while they tried to talk her down from her climb.




Sunday, my birthday, the universe decided to grant me a gift: a perfect day! The weather simply doesn't get better than it was yesterday. Colin and I went for breakfast at Maison Blanc, then for a long walk through the large park near Keble College. We went for a late lunch at the Rickety Press--OMG the tomato and fig chutney!




At 7:15 we met up with Richard and Nancy Barke to walk up to Wolvercote to have dinner at The Trout. The food was okay, but I think the establishment is suffering under its fame. I will give high marks, however, to the Sticky Toffee Pudding! It was so late when we finished we decided to take a cab rather than attempt to negotiate Port Meadow in the dark.

Thanks to everyone who sent cards. emails, and Facebook wishes!